{"id":19762,"date":"2025-12-01T11:43:10","date_gmt":"2025-12-01T11:43:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sterlingholidays.com\/blog\/?p=19762"},"modified":"2025-12-01T11:43:10","modified_gmt":"2025-12-01T11:43:10","slug":"from-lisbon-to-wayanad-a-portuguese-family-findsfamiliar-notes-in-malabar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sterlingholidays.com\/blog\/from-lisbon-to-wayanad-a-portuguese-family-findsfamiliar-notes-in-malabar\/","title":{"rendered":"From Lisbon to Wayanad: A Portuguese Family FindsFamiliar Notes in Malabar"},"content":{"rendered":"

When the Ferreira family<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>Jo\u00e3o, Marina, and their 14<\/span><\/span>–<\/span><\/span>year<\/span><\/span>–<\/span><\/span>old daughter Beatriz<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>planned <\/span><\/span>their Kerala holiday, they expected backwaters, houseboats, and coconut trees. They didn\u2019t <\/span><\/span>expect to find flavours that reminded them<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>quietly, naturally<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>of home.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/p>\n

Their journey took them from Kochi\u2019s old Portuguese quarters to the cool hills of Wayanad. <\/span><\/span>On their first night at<\/span><\/span> Sterling Wayanad<\/span><\/span><\/a>, they were told:<\/span><\/span> \u201cYou must try The Malabar.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/p>\n

Inside, the restaurant felt warm and grounded, lined with subtle hints of Kerala\u2019s spice <\/span><\/span>history. The family chose three dishes<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>each one a story, each one unexpectedly familiar.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

1. Malabari Mango Cloud Fish<\/span> \u2014<\/span> A Technique That Crossed the Ocean<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n
When the server mentioned that the fish was<\/span><\/span> steamed in banana leaf<\/span><\/span>, Jo\u00e3o raised an <\/span><\/span>eyebrow.<\/span><\/span>
\u201c<\/span><\/span>Folha? Como na Madeira?<\/span><\/span>\u201d he asked softly.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Banana<\/span><\/span>–<\/span><\/span>leaf steaming isn\u2019t common in mainland Portugal anymore, but in Madeira and <\/span><\/span>Azores, older home cooks still prepare<\/span><\/span> peixe ao vapor<\/span><\/span> wrapped in hoja or parchment.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Here, the method feels older, earthier.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
The menu said:<\/span><\/span>
\u201cPortugu\u00eas method. Malabar spices. The perfect marriage.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Wrapped at the table, the fish released an aroma of raw mango, chilli, coconut oil<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>nothing <\/span><\/span>like Portugal\u2019s<\/span><\/span> caldeirada<\/span><\/span>, yet the softness of the flesh, the citrus edge, the gentle heat from <\/span><\/span>what the server called \u201cKerala\u2019s version of<\/span><\/span> piri<\/span><\/span>–<\/span><\/span>piri<\/span><\/span>\u201d made Jo\u00e3o smile.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\u201cDifferent ingredients,\u201d he said, \u201cbut the soul of coastal cooking is the same.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Marina agreed. For her, it wasn\u2019t nostalgia. It was recognition<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>two coastlines speaking a <\/span><\/span>similar language through technique.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n

2. Koonthal Nirachathu<\/span> \u2014<\/span> Kerala\u2019s Answer to Stuffed Lulas<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n
When the<\/span><\/span> stuffed squid<\/span><\/span> arrived, Beatriz leaned forward.<\/span><\/span>
\u201c<\/span><\/span>Pai, parece lulas recheadas!<\/span><\/span>\u201d (Dad, it looks like stuffed squid!)<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
And she was right.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
The dish<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>Koonthal Nirachathu<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>is described in the menu as squid stuffed with shallots, <\/span><\/span>egg, and Moplah spices, roasted till the edges blister.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n
<\/div>\n
In Portugal,<\/span><\/span> lulas recheadas<\/span><\/span> are filled with breadcrumbs, herbs, and sometimes chouri\u00e7o. <\/span><\/span>In Malabar, the stuffing is hotter, more aromatic<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>shallots, turmeric, pepper, and a spice <\/span><\/span>blend the server called<\/span><\/span> \u201cMoplah masala.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Jo\u00e3o tasted it quietly and nodded.<\/span><\/span>
\u201cNot our flavours,\u201d he said, \u201cbut the preparation\u2026 we could be eating this in Set\u00fabal. Squid <\/span><\/span>treated with respect is universal.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Beatriz loved the light smokiness.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s like someone took our dish and gave it a Kerala accent,\u201d she said.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n

3. Chattipathri<\/span><\/span> \u2014<\/span><\/span> A Layered Dish That Felt Comfortingly Familiar<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n
The final dish was one the family didn\u2019t expect to relate to:<\/span><\/span> Chattipathri<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>Kerala\u2019s <\/span><\/span>ceremonial layered Moplah preparation.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
The booklet describes it as<\/span><\/span> rice pancakes layered with chicken, brushed with ghee, baked like <\/span><\/span>a cake.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Marina cut through the layers and paused.<\/span><\/span>
\u201c<\/span><\/span>Isto parece empad\u00e3o\u2026 mas n\u00e3o \u00e9 empad\u00e3o.<\/span><\/span>\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Empad\u00e3o<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>Portugal\u2019s layered baked pie<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>is thicker, usually potato<\/span><\/span>–<\/span><\/span>based. But the structure, <\/span><\/span>the ritual of layering, and the slow baking brought a small sense of kinship.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
It wasn\u2019t similar enough to evoke memories.<\/span><\/span>
It was similar enough to feel instinctively understood.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Beatriz liked it best.<\/span><\/span>
\u201cThis reminds me of home,\u201d she said, \u201cnot because it tastes like Portugal\u2026 but because the <\/span><\/span>warmth feels familiar.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n

What They Took Away From Wayanad<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n
The Ferreira family didn\u2019t leave The Malabar thinking Kerala cuisine resembled Portugal\u2019s.<\/span><\/span>
It doesn\u2019t<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>and doesn\u2019t need to.<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
What they felt instead was<\/span><\/span> connection<\/span><\/span>:<\/span><\/span><\/span>
\u2022<\/span><\/span><\/span> A steaming method they recognised<\/span><\/span><\/span>
\u2022<\/span><\/span><\/span> A squid dish prepared with the same respect as their<\/span><\/span> lulas recheadas<\/span><\/span><\/span>
\u2022<\/span><\/span><\/span> A layered celebration dish that echoed the logic of<\/span><\/span> empad\u00e3o<\/span><\/span><\/span>
\u2022<\/span><\/span><\/span> A shared coastline culture<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span>spice, sea, smoke, citrus<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n
\u2022<\/span><\/span><\/span> A flavour bridge formed not by imitation, but by history<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
As Jo\u00e3o said later that night,<\/span><\/span>
\u201cTwo places can be different in every way\u2026 and still understand each other through food.\u201d<\/span><\/span><\/span>
<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
That was the true magic of their dinner at<\/span><\/span> The Malabar<\/span><\/span>\u2014<\/span><\/span> not that it reminded them of <\/span><\/span>Portugal, but that it reminded them that<\/span><\/span> culinary traditions travel, evolve, and greet each <\/span><\/span>other across time and oceans.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When the Ferreira family\u2014Jo\u00e3o, Marina, and their 14–year–old daughter Beatriz\u2014planned their Kerala holiday, they expected backwaters, houseboats, and coconut trees. They didn\u2019t expect to find flavours that reminded them\u2014quietly, naturally\u2014of home. Their journey took them from Kochi\u2019s old Portuguese quarters to the cool hills of Wayanad. On their first night at Sterling Wayanad, they were…<\/p>\n

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