{"id":6447,"date":"2015-05-19T08:20:09","date_gmt":"2015-05-19T08:20:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/52.4.240.141:81\/sterlingblog_new\/?p=6447"},"modified":"2025-04-08T06:59:33","modified_gmt":"2025-04-08T06:59:33","slug":"sparkling-lakes-nainital-part-v","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sterlingholidays.com\/blog\/sparkling-lakes-nainital-part-v\/","title":{"rendered":"Sparkling Lakes \u2013 Nainital, Part V"},"content":{"rendered":"

Did you know that Steve Jobs and Julia Roberts have stayed at Neem Karauli Baba\u2019s ashram <\/strong><\/em>Kainchi, 17 km from Nainital ? In the final part, traveler\u00a0Shireen Bharucha describes the <\/strong><\/em>magnificent British architecture of the heritage sites in Nainital and her tryst with sumptuous Kumaoni delicacies.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Located 22 km from Nainital<\/strong>, Bhimtal is encircled by the Kumaoun hills.\u00a0 Named after Bhima of Mahabharata fame, it is a perennial lake and the biggest in Nainital district.\u00a0 Forests of oak and pine cover the hill slopes around the lake.\u00a0 Though not as spectacular as Naukuchiatal, it is more entertaining.\u00a0\u00a0 A unique feature of this lake is a small island in the middle which houses an aquarium. The aquarium can be reached by boat.\u00a0 Terraced gardens by the walkway add to the ambience.\u00a0 Some geese and ducks swim elegantly, while others flap their wings vigorously and a few diving headlong into the lake, make for an engaging sight.\u00a0 Boating and fishing are added attractions.<\/p>\n

\"Aquarium<\/p>\n

Our tour of lakes ends at Sat Tal (seven lakes).\u00a0 Here seven fresh water lakes, namely Garud Tal, Nal-Damyanti Tal, Purna Tal, Sita Tal, Ram Tal, Laxman Tal and Sukha Tal are interconnected.\u00a0 Set amongst dense forests, the site is unspoiled and unpolluted, as no construction is allowed since the land belongs to the forest department, Rakesh informs us.\u00a0 In spite of this, there are several food stalls and two Kashmiri Emporiums!\u00a0 Little wonder then, that this site attracts a lot of sightseers.\u00a0 Rakesh recommends lunch at Gitanjali, well known for its curry rice and rajma rice.\u00a0 We order a dish of rajma (red kidney beans) and paneermuttar (cottage cheese and peas), that go well with fluffy light chapattis.\u00a0 The food is good and prices are reasonable.\u00a0 On the shore of the lake a gaggle of geese honks noisily, while a yellow wagtail, observes the scene.\u00a0 After lunch we stroll along the pathway.\u00a0 A delicate curtain of orange flowers on spindly branches, probably of the weeping willow, hangs over the glittering, grey-green, gently rippling lake, through which we discern a meadow with cattle grazing.\u00a0 Besides boating, adventure sports are encouraged.<\/p>\n

Our final destination for the day is Neem Karauli Baba\u2019s ashram at Kainchi, 17 km from Nainital \u2013 a complex of simple structures, amid a small but artistically laid out garden through which a mountain stream cascades.\u00a0 Among others, the Baba was a guru to a number of American hippies who came to India in the 1960s and 70s, one of whom was Apple founder, Steve Jobs.\u00a0 According to Steve Woznaik, a college friend of Steve Jobs, it was Job\u2019s stay in India that inspired him to found Apple.\u00a0 Jobs came to India in mid-1974 to visit the Baba, but the guru had passed away in September 1973.\u00a0 Jobs stayed on at the ashram and learnt about the Baba\u2019s teachings.\u00a0 A more recent disciple is Hollywood actress Julia Roberts.\u00a0 The ashram is well maintained.\u00a0 There is not much within the ashram \u2013 Baba\u2019s photos hang on the walls, and the cot he slept on is displayed.\u00a0 A statue of Baba is in a marble enclosure.\u00a0 The ashram is now a pilgrimage centre and during the temple fair held on the 15th of June each year, one lakh devotees are fed.\u00a0 Baba also built a Hanuman temple close to the ashram.\u00a0 There is a cave beside the temple where Baba used to pray, which is considered sacred.<\/p>\n

Our last day is devoted to two heritage sites, the first being Raj Bhavan, the official residence of the Governor of Uttarakhand.\u00a0 This awe inspiring, magnificently designed Victorian Gothic edifice is double storied.\u00a0 The construction commenced on 27 April 1897 and was completed in March 1900.\u00a0 This is one of the few Raj Bhavans in the country, where select rooms on the ground floor of the total 113 rooms, are open for public viewing.\u00a0 The estate sprawls over 220 acres. There is a guided tour daily from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. on the premises, which we join.\u00a0 There are no tours on Sundays, public holidays or when the Governor is in residence.\u00a0 The entry fee is Rs.50\/- per head.<\/p>\n

The tour starts with a short walk through the 160 acres of forest lush with deodar and oak trees, till we come to the entrance.\u00a0 As we enter the lobby, an enormous and ornate fireplace welcomes us.\u00a0 The guide informs us that the show pieces on its mantle are exactly as the British left them, as is the large dinner gong that hangs from a gigantic pair of elephant tusks.\u00a0 During colonial times, this was the Governor\u2019s residence.<\/p>\n

Burma teak is used for the main stairway, the paneling of the dining room, which the guide tells us can seat 75 diners at a time, all the doors and windows and some of the principal floors.\u00a0 For less important floors, shisham (rose wood), satin wood, cypress and sal have been used.\u00a0 The glass, tiles, brass fittings and iron pipes were imported from England.\u00a0 Masons from Agra executed the \u2018ashlar\u2019 stone work.\u00a0 Ashlar masons build walls, arches and buildings through correct placement of varied sizes of rectangular stone blocks.\u00a0 Carpenters from Punjab were employed for the wood work.\u00a0 The furniture was procured from England and Calcutta (today Kolkata).\u00a0 All the furniture, wooden and metal, intricately carved, is the original furniture used by the British, only the tapestry has been changed.\u00a0 The construction of the building allows for a maximum of natural light.<\/p>\n

Candle chandeliers adorn the ceilings of all rooms.\u00a0 The walls show off deer heads and antlers as also weapons that were seized from the infamous Sultana Daku \u2013 lances, swords, muzzle loaders and knives.\u00a0 We are led into the ballroom which exudes elegance and old world charm, with the orchestra gallery above.\u00a0 Springs have been put under the flooring of the ball room to make dancing easy on the feet.\u00a0 The recreation room and the breakfast room have metal furniture and ceilings of glass panes.\u00a0 While the panes of the recreation room are broken, the ones in the breakfast room are intact.\u00a0 The glass panes are supported by a wire meshing underneath.\u00a0 We are also shown the waiting room for the governor\u2019s guests \u2013 the only room that has been refurbished.<\/p>\n

Paths through manicured lawns take us down to the golf course set against a verdant backdrop.\u00a0 The 18-hole golf course has 18 different tees.\u00a0 The golf course designed by British Army engineers spreads over 50 acres.\u00a0 Golfing started in 1926.\u00a0 The golf course is one of the best in the country and hosts many golf championships.\u00a0 It is open to the public for a fee.\u00a0 Visitors can also use the club house and the restaurant attached to it.<\/p>\n

We exit the golf course through a forested path where wild flowers grow, bees buzz and butterflies float till we reach the green roofed secretariat where the governor\u2019s staff works when the governor is in residence.\u00a0 This is the end of the tour.<\/p>\n

\"

Bee on Floss Flower | Bulbul with mulberry<\/p><\/div>\n

\"

Butterflies on blue floss flowers | Butterfly on Lantana<\/p><\/div>\n

We arrive at the second site through a slip-up, rather than by design.\u00a0 We are keen to see Nainital born, Jim Corbett, the distinguished hunter, conservationist and writer\u2019s one time residence \u2013 Gurney House.\u00a0 We ask a staffer at Sterling for directions.\u00a0 He politely assures us that Jim Corbett\u2019s house is not in Nainital, but in Kaladhungi, 34 km away and directs us there.\u00a0 Kaladhungi was the winter residence of the Corbetts, which has been converted into a museum as a memorial to Jim Corbett.\u00a0 The entry fee is Rs.10\/- per head.\u00a0 The well maintained, green roofed rustic cottage, with its arched doorways sports a bust of Jim Corbett at the entrance.\u00a0 The interiors exhibit Corbett\u2019s personal belongings:\u00a0 furniture, crockery, fishing net, gun, cap, family photographs, huge oil paintings of Corbett and letters.\u00a0 The garden is pleasant \u2013 some langurs make merry on tops of trees and the blood red bottle brush is in full bloom.\u00a0 A small souvenir shop sells books on Corbett, spices and locally grown beans.<\/p>\n

We learn later that Gurney House is indeed in Nainital, close to Naini Lake.\u00a0 When Corbett left India for Kenya, he sold the house to a Mr. ShardaVarma.\u00a0 Although it is a private home now, the owners welcome tourists and do not object to a complimentary tour of this property, provided a prior appointment is taken.\u00a0 We are disappointed at not being able to see it.<\/p>\n

On our last night Mr. Kundan, the activities manager, kindly organizes a dinner treat for us of sumptuous Kumaoni delicacies.\u00a0 Bhatt Ki Churkani (a preparation of black beans), AlooKeGutke (a spicy potato dish), Kafuli (thick gravy made from spinach leaves) and a chicken curry \u2013 all lip-smacking!<\/p>\n

The short but enjoyable holiday comes to an end.\u00a0 Nainital has something for everybody \u2013a serene getaway, for some, from the hurly-burly of urban life, for the devout, there are many temples, while for the adventurous and the athletic a host of activities beckon:\u00a0 treks to points, horse riding, sailing, paragliding, camping, fishing and more.<\/p>\n

Nainital\u2019s sublime beauty of forests, lakes and mountains can be best described in the words of the naturalist, John Muir (1838-1914) \u2013 \u201cThe forests too, seem kindly familiar, and the lakes and meadows and glad singing streams.\u00a0 I should like to dwell with them forever.\u201d\u00a0 Speaking for myself, I certainly would!<\/p>\n

Quick Links<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

Sparkling Lakes \u2013 Nainital, Part I<\/p>\n

Sparkling Lakes \u2013 Nainital, Part II<\/a><\/p>\n

Sparkling Lakes \u2013 Nainital, Part III<\/a><\/p>\n

Sparkling Lakes \u2013 Nainital, Part IV<\/a><\/p>\n

Sparkling Lakes \u2013 Nainital, Part V<\/a><\/p>\n

The views expressed by the author are in her personal capacity.<\/em><\/p>\n

<\/h3>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Did you know that Steve Jobs and Julia Roberts have stayed at Neem Karauli Baba\u2019s ashram Kainchi, 17 km from Nainital ? In the final part, traveler\u00a0Shireen Bharucha describes the magnificent British architecture of the heritage sites in Nainital and her tryst with sumptuous Kumaoni delicacies. Located 22 km from Nainital, Bhimtal is encircled by…<\/p>\n

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