A Birdwatcher’s Quiet July Awakening

Some people chase birds for the perfect photo. I came to Anaikatti hoping for something quieter.

For the past few years, birdwatching had been my weekend ritual—half escape, half meditation. It started as a pandemic habit, evolved into an obsession, and eventually became a kind of therapy. But lately, even that had begun to feel performative. Too much gear. Too many hashtags. I missed the stillness of it.

So, I booked a solo trip to Anaikatti in July—not for the views, but for the monsoon migration.

I had read that the Western Ghats come alive in the rains. The landscape deepens, the air thickens, and the birds return. I didn’t care if I spotted anything rare. I just wanted to remember why I started looking up in the first place.

The first morning began before sunrise. The staff had arranged an early walk with a local guide named Hari—soft-spoken, with weathered boots and a binocular strap that looked older than me. We met at the edge of the forest trail; the light still bruised with blue.

“Don’t rush,” he said, as we entered. “The birds know when we’re trying too hard.”

The trail was slick, the earth spongy beneath my boots. Ferns curled like fists along the path. We paused every few minutes—not to spot, but to listen. That was Hari’s way.

A racket-tailed drongo flitted through the canopy. A scarlet minivet appeared briefly, almost showy against the gloom. I caught the outline of a Malabar parakeet, its silhouette trembling with rain. My camera stayed mostly idle, slung low against my hip. I didn’t want to break the spell.

We stopped by a cluster of bamboo. That’s when we heard it.

A high, wavering call—clear but strange. Almost hesitant. Hari held up his hand. “That’s not on your app,” he said with a smile. “We call it the Rain-Wren. You won’t find it in any guidebook.”

We waited. The call came again, softer now. I scanned the trees but saw nothing. Just the sound. Elusive, like mist.

And then it was gone.

I didn’t see the Rain-Wren that day. I didn’t even get a recording. But somehow, that invisible song lingered louder than any photograph could have.

Back at the resort, I skipped breakfast and just sat on the porch of my cottage, wrapped in a shawl, sipping black coffee. I watched the hills disappear into cloud and reappear again, as if deciding whether or not to stay.

By the third day, I’d stopped trying to “spot” things. I joined the birdwatching walk again, but this time without the big lens or the field guide. Just a notebook. I sketched silhouettes. Wrote down colors. I followed the rhythm of wings instead of chasing them.

One afternoon, I wandered down a side trail alone and stumbled upon a grey wagtail darting between puddles. I sat cross-legged in the mud and just watched. No camera. No clicks. Just the delicate rhythm of a bird doing what it’s always done—existing, beautifully, in the background.

I thought about how much of my life had become about capturing. Posting. Proving. And how freeing it was to let all that go.

That night, over a quiet dinner, I spoke with another guest—an elderly man who’d been birding for over 30 years. He told me that sometimes, the best birdwatching happens when you stop looking.

“Birds,” he said, “are like memories. They appear when you’re ready.”

On my last morning, Hari handed me a small feather tied into a piece of bark. “From the forest,” he said. “Not from a bird. Just the forest.” I kept it in my notebook.

I didn’t tick many species off my list that trip. But I left with something far rarer stillness. I remembered that birdwatching wasn’t about collecting proof. It was about presence.

And that somewhere in Anaikatti, under dripping bamboo and rain-slick leaves, the Rain-Wren is still singing. Unseen. Uncaptured. But heard.